Renaissance Patterns



 
 In Spain it was called a ropa. In France it was the marlotte, in Holland it was a vlieger, in Italy, simarra. In England, one name for it was circot or surcoat. The Spanish loose gown was a very popular garment for noble and middle class women in Europe for nearly a century and a half. It became popular in England during the brief reign (1553-1558) of Queen Mary, after her marriage to Philip of Spain, and was worn well into the 1600’s.

The loose gown normally was worn over a kirtle, but it may have been worn over a bodice and skirt instead, especially when worn open. These were worn over a pair of bodies (otherwise known today as a corset), a farthingale (optional, depending on social status or pretensions), a bumroll, an underskirt or two (or more, if no farthingale was worn), and a shift.
1500 - 1630
Spanish Loose Gown
$22.00




No. 1500-2
Fastens up the front, or may be left open.
May be lined or unlined.
With or without shoulder wings or a collar.
Many sleeve options:
 - Two lengths of hanging round sleeves
 - Long straight hanging sleeve
 - Short sleeves or Sleeveless

This garment is designed to fit over a 4’ in diameter farthingale.

This pattern includes 19 pages of instructions with historical tips, and 5 pattern sheets. It is printed on bond paper, and enclosed in a white paper envelope.

All sizes Petite – X-large are included. Fabric amounts depend more on height than on size – it is set up for someone who is 5’2” to 5’11” (marked as Petite, Medium, Tall and Very Tall). If you are shorter or taller than the marked increments, you will need to shorten or lengthen this pattern.
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1500 - 1630
Round Kirtle
$18.00


No. 1500-3
Fastens up the front or the back.
With or without a waist seam.
With, without, or detached sleeves.
Fitted or loose in the torso.   May be lined or unlined.
Variations and decoration ideas.
 
The photo shows a loose kirtle without a waist seam.


There are two major variations: View 1 – the long-bodied kirtle, is based on the notes of Janet Arnold of the kirtle in the Germanisches Nationalmuseum in Nürnberg; and View 2 – the “two piece” kirtle, with a waist seam, which is based on the pattern layouts published by Juan de Alcega in 1589. View 3 – a voluminous variation on the first kirtle, is loose enough to be used during pregnancy. All three may be made with a front or back opening, and with a high, low round, or very low square neckline. Sleeves may be set in, or made detachable.

This pattern includes 14 pages of instructions with historical tips, and 4 pattern sheets. It is printed on bond paper, and enclosed in a reclosable plastic bag.

All sizes Petite – X-large are included. Fabric amounts depend more on height than on size – it is set up for someone who is 5’2” to 5’11” (marked as Petite, Medium, Tall and Very Tall). If you are shorter or taller than the marked increments, you will need to shorten or lengthen this pattern.

Comfortable clothes in the fashionable set of the Renaissance may sound unlikely, but the kirtle fits this description. The kirtle of the 1500s might be cut loose and long, from the shoulder to the floor, or cut with a waist seam for a closer fit at the torso. It was worn under a Loose Gown, and might be considered en dishabille – or something that was normally (though not always) worn as comfortable indoor clothing. This was a middle and upper class garment, and would only have been worn by lower class women as a third- or forth-hand castoff – clothing was often passed down as payment or rewards.

The Round Kirtle refers to a skirt that is round, or level, at the hemline. This garment is different from the French Kirtle, which, in the French fashion, sported a train. A French kirtle might be altered into a round kirtle when the fabric of the train became too shabby, or when taste or fashion changed.

The kirtle was worn over a shift, a pair of bodies (otherwise known today as a corset), a farthingale (optional, depending on social status or pretensions), a bumroll, and an underskirt or two (or more, if no farthingale was worn).

This kirtle is designed to fit over a 2 ½’ to 4’ diameter farthingale. Because the design is intended for a custom fit, the final hemline measurement will depend on the garment size and length.

Variations:

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1500 - 1630
French Gown
$22.00


No. 1500-5
Fastens up the front, the back, or the back sides.
Low neckline may be scooped, flat across, or upturned.
Round or pointed waistline.
Detached sleeves, or sleeveless.
Optional shoulder rolls or wings.
Variations and decoration idea.
 
The photo shows a shortened French Gown
over a Round Kirtle.
The basic dress for the wealthy was the French Gown. Yards of expensive fabric were arranged over a farthingale, conspicuous consumption at its highest. When the widest Spanish farthingale gave way to the French farthingale, the extra length was pinned up around the drum edge.

The gown is designed to fit over a 2 ½’ to 4’ diameter farthingale. Because the design is intended for a custom fit, the final hemline measurement will depend on the garment size and length. It may be made with a front, side back, or center back opening. The neckline may be up-curved, straight across, or low and round. Sleeves and shoulder wings or rolls are optional.

This pattern includes 15 pages of instructions with historical tips, and 5 pattern sheets. It is printed on bond paper, and enclosed in a reclosable plastic bag.

All sizes Petite – X-large are included. Fabric amounts depend more on height than on size – it is set up for someone who is 5’2” to 5’11” (marked as Petite, Medium, Tall and Very Tall). If you are shorter or taller than the marked increments, you will need to shorten or lengthen this pattern.
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1480 - 1600
Spanish Farthingale
$12.00


No. 1500-1
Needed for the period silhouette.
Approximately 4' in diameter.
Rope or "modern" whalebone (hoop wire) options.
Fasten up the back or sides.
Variations and Decoration Ideas
Underpinnings create the shape of fashion. One of the most important shapers of the Renaissance was the farthingale. The Spanish Farthingale was cone or bell shaped. In the early years of this period, it was worn with the hoops showing and decorated. By 1550, the farthingale was rarely seen without an over-skirt.

This pattern includes 11 pages of instructions with historical tips, and 3 pattern sheets. It is printed on bond paper, and enclosed in a white paper envelope.

All sizes Petite – X-large are included. Fabric amounts depend more on height than on size – it is set up for someone who is 5’2” to 5’11” (marked as Petite, Medium, Tall and Very Tall). If you are shorter or taller than the marked increments, you will need to shorten or lengthen this pattern.
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1550 - 1630
Quilted Pair of Bodies
 $10.00

No. 1500-4
Front or back opening. 
Cup size variations.
Deep or shallow front.
May be made with or without tabs.
Wide and pointed or narrow shoulder straps.
Boning and lacing suggestions and variations
.
Removable busk (not included).

The critical underpinning of the Renaissance torso was known as a pair of bodies – today we refer to this garment as a corset. The term “pair of bodies” might refer to an undergarment, or it could be the outer bodice, depending on the context. Some quilted bodies appear to have been unboned, but when used as a supportive undergarment, the “quilted bodies”, supported by cane, reeds, “bent” (bundles of hollow but sturdy grass), horn (for a very stiff silhouette), or whalebone, created the conical silhouette of the period. Keep in mind that this is not a lift and separate, curvaceous corset. It is a smash ‘em flat and confine to a cone corset.

You will need a busk and boning to create this garment, and the busk is available in another listing.

This pattern includes 14 pages of instructions with historical tips, and 1 pattern sheet. It is printed on bond paper, and enclosed in a reclosable plastic bag.

All sizes 2 – 30 are included.

____________________________Renaissance Busk: Hardwood Corset Busk
No. 1700-8
14" long Hardwood Corset/Stays Busk
 with Information Sheet
Keeps the front of the corset upright & stiff

Fits patterns #1500-4, #1700-1 & #1810-3
$9.00


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